Colorado Crags › Colorado climbing areas › South Platte
South Platte climbing, Colorado — 3,019 climbs across 8 named crags, with sport, trad, bouldering and top-rope breakdowns, a full grade spread, and a family-friendly score of 4/5 (est.). Top crags: Devil's Head, Staunton State Park, Rampart Range Road.
Routes can count in more than one style, so style counts add up to more than the total climbs. A few climbs are ungraded, so the grade bands may add up to slightly less.
4 / 5 Great with kids. Staunton State Park is the family anchor here: Staunton Rocks has easier routes without a long hike, and Campground Rock near the Meadow lot is used for kids' events.
Note combines OpenBeta grade/style counts with known family beta for this area. Not a safety rating: check the specific wall's approach, base, and current access before bringing a small child.
Staunton State Park, inside this area, needs a Colorado state park pass: $10/day per vehicle, or the $29/year Keep Colorado Wild pass for Colorado residents. No separate climbing permit.
Staunton State Park — Colorado Parks & Wildlife →
Always confirm on the official site — rules change.
| Route | Grade | Style |
|---|---|---|
| Bad Grandpa | 5.11a | Sport |
| Tall Boy | 5.11c | SportTop rope |
| Lord of the Flies | 5.10c | Sport |
| The Bends | 5.11b | Trad |
| Tilt | 5.11d | Sport |
| Trunkline | 5.11a | Trad |
| Corky | 5.11b | Sport |
| A Day in the Life | 5.8+ | Sport |
| Heat Stroke | 5.12a | Sport |
| Crosshairs | 5.12c | Sport |
| Man Hands | 5.10d | SportTrad |
| Gigantor | 5.11c/d | SportTrad |
| Shimminy Cricket | 5.9+ | Trad |
| Centrist | 5.7+ | Trad |
| Route | Grade | Style |
|---|---|---|
| Grip | 5.8+ | Sport |
| Aerial Acrobatics | 5.10a | Sport |
| The Morrigan | 5.8+ | Sport |
| Yatagarasu | 5.12a | TradTop rope |
| The Rook | 5.7 | Sport |
| Flight Bombay | 5.10d | Sport |
| Rave On | 5.7 | Top rope |
| Pilgrimage to Lordran | 5.9 | Sport |
| Grey Jay | 5.7 | Sport |
| Trickster in Black | 5.11b | Trad |
| Optunivor | 5.9 | Trad |
| Flight Primary | 5.10c | Sport |
| Magpie | 5.7 | Sport |
| Playing in the Updraft | 5.9 | Sport |
| Route | Grade | Style |
|---|---|---|
| The Grunt | 5.10a | Trad |
| Alcove 5.9 Route | 5.9 | Trad |
| Lost Cord | 5.11a | Trad |
| Illegal Smile | 5.8 | Trad |
| Benz Climb | 5.6 | Trad |
| Pete and Benz | 5.7 | Trad |
| 5.9 Route | 5.9 | Trad |
| The Caped One | 5.9 | Trad |
| Miss Bliss | 5.8- | SportTrad |
| Fogg Spire | 5.10d | Sport |
| B'ing There | 5.6 | TradTop rope |
| Burgers | 5.8 | TradTop rope |
| Slip Slidin' Away | 5.10c | Trad |
| No Chute aka Rip Cord | 5.10a | Trad |
| Route | Grade | Style |
|---|---|---|
| Blerg | 5.8 | Sport |
| Haircase | 5.11b | Trad |
| In Two Deep | 5.10a | Trad |
| Cake Walk | 5.5 | Trad |
| Persistence | 5.9+ | Sport |
| Arch Rock Route | 5.8 | Trad |
| Smiley Face | 5.6 | Sport |
| Frown-E Face | 5.9+ | Top rope |
| Duck Face | 5.7 | Sport |
| Zorro's Cave | 5.9 | Trad |
| Arch Rock Direct | 5.7 | SportTrad |
| Pride of Sweden | 5.10c | Sport |
| Sticks and Stones | 5.7+ | Trad |
| Middle Meanie Crack | 5.7 | Trad |
A sample of real routes from this crag on OpenBeta — the full list is on OpenBeta.
| Route | Grade | Style |
|---|---|---|
| Hard Monkeys | 5.8 | Trad |
| When Sheep are Nervous | 5.9 | Trad |
| Chinook | 5.9+ | Trad |
| Seamis | 5.11a | TradTop rope |
| The Pit of Despair | V0 | Bouldering |
| Old Man Route | 5.9+ | Trad |
| Sheep with a Silver Tail | 5.10b | Trad |
| Sheep Dipped (open project) | 5.14a/b | Sport |
| 10 Sheep and a Goat | 5.9+ | Trad |
| For Wimps Only | 5.11a | Trad |
| Direct Line | 5.10a | Trad |
| Golden Fleece | 5.10d | Trad |
| Southeast Face | 5.8+ | Trad |
| Culling The Herd | 5.13b/c | Sport |
| Route | Grade | Style |
|---|---|---|
| Kitty Kat Skat | 5.11- | Sport |
| Jar of Flies | 5.10- | SportTop rope |
| The Day You Died | 5.8 | Sport |
| Hell Within | 5.9 | SportTop rope |
| Fire in my Veins | 5.10d | Sport |
| COVID Toes | 5.9+ | Sport |
| Sludge Factory | 5.9 | SportTop rope |
| Celebrating Nothing | 5.10- | Sport |
| Log Jam | 5.10 | SportTop rope |
| Dance With The Devil | 5.11+ | Sport |
| Man in the Box | 5.10 | Sport |
| Heaven Beside You | 5.10- | SportTop rope |
| Cowboy Butts Drive Me Nuts | 5.10 | Sport |
| Message in a Bottle | 5.10- | Sport |
| Route | Grade | Style |
|---|---|---|
| Uncle Wiggly | 5.10c | Trad |
| Guillotine | 5.10c/d | Trad |
| Throne Room | 5.10 | Trad |
| Rapunzel | 5.11b | Trad |
| Wiggins Route | 5.10b | Trad |
| The Dungeon | 5.10d | Trad |
| Southeast Gully | 5.4 | Trad |
| The Nose | 5.10- | Trad |
| Hardgumbi's Lament | 5.10- | Trad |
| Parapet Corner | 5.9 | Trad |
| The Camel Walk | 5.10a | Trad |
| Dewitt Route | 5.10 | Trad |
| Schmauser - Bohannon Route | 5.11 | Trad |
| Betterman | 5.10c/d | Trad |
| Route | Grade | Style |
|---|---|---|
| Four Friends | 5.10c | Trad |
| Foxton Shuffle | 5.12+ | Sport |
| Everything Just Feels Like Rain | 5.12- | Sport |
| Fallen Angels | 5.10b | Trad |
| Squatter's Rights | 5.8 | Trad |
| New Way | 5.9 | Trad |
| Turkey Foot Crack | 5.10a | Trad |
| Astro Turkey | 5.11b | Trad |
| Muddy Past | 5.9 | Trad |
| Unknown 10d | 5.10d | Trad |
| Wear Cattle | 5.10a | Trad |
| Promised Road | 5.11c | Trad |
| Knives Out | 5.12 | Sport |
| Coppertone | 5.11+ | SportTrad |
Route-level beta for South Platte lives on Mountain Project and OpenBeta — Colorado Crags helps you pick the spot; those sites have the route descriptions, photos and comments.
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